[Reader-list] Calcutta Ramzaan buffet

[zainab at xtdnet.nl]

Way to go folks. Please share the experience on the community. Mine comes
up next week after the messy and enriching walk last Saturday and the
upcoming one this Saturday!

Cheers,
Zainab


> Ramzaan Buffet in Calcutta
>
> V Ramaswamy
>
>
> Following upon Zainab's "Urban Buffet" from Bombay, here is a Ramzaan
> Buffet from Calcutta.
>
> The area around Zakaria Street, the Nakhoda Mosque (Chitpur Road),
> Colootola Street, Bolai Dutta Street, Phears Lane (Calcutta 73) - is THE
> place to visit in Calcutta during Ramzaan for gastronomic delight .
>
> This locality used to be the hub of the Urdu-speaking Muslim elite of
> Calcutta. There are other important centres of the Muslim community in
> Calcutta, but they are predominantly of a working-class character. So, as
> far as food is concerned, the food available would tend to cater to the
> low-income consumer, rather than a gastronome.
>
> Ramzaan is a time when food becomes very significant, and various items
> (quite rich) are available only during this time. The whole locality
> becomes a public exhibition of food. Note: strong digestive system needed.
>
> The cuisine is derived from north India, but has acquired its own
> distinctive style and flavour; referred to as Calcutta Mughlai. One of the
> important influencers (but not the nly one) was Awadh's Nawab Wajid Ali
> Shah's exile in Metiabruz, Calcutta.
>
> The visit can begin from Zakaria Street (opposite Mohd. Ali Park on
> Chittaranjan Avenue), which leads to Chitpur Road, near the Nakhoda
> Mosque. Colootola Street is parallel to (north of) Zakaria Street. Bolai
> Dutta Street is off Chitpur Road (going west).
>
> Bolai Dutta Street is also a centre of fruit wholesaling. Ramzaan is a
> very important time for the city's fruit trade.
>
> On Zakaria Street: murg changazi and mahi akbari (fish), and special fish
> fry. These are road side items around the mosque.
>
> Besides we have renowned restaurants like Sufia and Aminia which sells
> special halims-- Arbi Halim, Maghaz / Kofta zaban halim / Ghost halim. All
> quite heavy (filling), so its best to buy and take home.
>
> Delectable special breads and buns are available on the roadside.
>
> Aminia and the nearby Royal both have special Ramzaan menus on offer.
>
> In Bolai Dutta Street there is the famous Adam's kebab shop, its
> specialities being sutli kebab or boti kebab, and niri kebab.
>
> In Colootola, roasted chicken items are available on the roadside.
>
> Biryanis are available all around, like always.
>
> Nearby is the famous Haji Allauddin sweets shop - important sweets items
> being khajla / laccha/ dudiya/ Mansoor pak / Malai barfi / special laddu.
>
> Visit, check out what's available, try a few things, take things home. And
> come again with family and friends.
>
> People interested in kurtas and lungis / dhotis would find a lot on offer,
> at attractive prices, on Zakaria Street. There are also shops selling itr
> (fragrance) and surma. So many shops, selling so many interesting things.
> (I once bought an old-style iron (istri), the kind where burning coal is
> put inside. I gave this as a gift to a friend, who uses it as a
> paper-weight cum odds-and-ends repository on his desk!) I was also
> pleasantly surprised to find a Tamil shop selling lungis / dhotis. I had
> bought a white dhoti there, which I still use.)
>
> There are also several bookshops in this area selling Urdu books (so if
> anyone wants to get Iqbal, Faiz, Manto, dictionaries, primers etc, this is
> the place to go to).
>
> After this one can walk down southwards towards Poddar Court and going
> down along Bentick Street reach the Tipu Sultan mosque in front of the
> Statesman office. Behind the mosque is an old and famous faluda shop which
> offers nargisi faluda.
>
> The best time for the gastronomic stroll would be 7 to 8.30 pm. Note: the
> best Halim runs out by 7 pm.
>
> While the "Right to Information" is important in a democracy, equally
> important in a pluralist society is the "Desire to Know & Share"!
>
> If anybody is interested in a guide / accompaniment for a visit, please
> contact:
>
> Hasnain Imam: hasimam at yahoo.co.in, 98313 02281
>
> V Ramaswamy: hpp at vsnl.com, 98300 69413
>
>
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Zainab Bawa
Bombay
www.xanga.com/CityBytes
http://crimsonfeet.recut.org/rubrique53.html