[Reader-list] Waste: Uncovering the Global Food Scandal
Jeebesh
jeebesh at sarai.net
Thu Sep 17 12:59:19 IST 2009
dear All,
An exceptional book has been written by a friend based in London. He
has been in Delhi for a long period earlier and is known to many
people on this list. The book is called Waste and is based on detailed
research for over many years.
Enclosing a review of the book.
warmly
jeebesh
http://www.tristramstuart.co.uk/Review.html
Waste
Review by Fiona Harvey
Published: July 18 2009 01:41 | Last updated: July 18 2009 01:41
Waste: Uncovering the Global Food Scandal
By Tristram Stuart
Penguin £9.99, 448 pages
FT Bookshop price: £7.99
Next time you pick up a lunchtime sandwich, take a moment to think
about where it has come from. Think of the effort it took to grow the
wheat for the bread, to feed the cows to make the cheese, to cultivate
the salad from seed. Imagine if you took a few bites from it and
simply threw the rest straight in the bin. And if you did that every
day, with everything you ate.
Supermarkets and high-street sandwich chains regularly discard a
quarter as many sandwiches as they sell. Most of that food is
perfectly edible, but little of it is given away to the poor or
homeless. Instead, it is destroyed and often sent to landfill.
Meanwhile, 1bn people go hungry, in a globalised economy.
Consumers are no better. In the UK alone, according to government
estimates, a third of the food we buy goes into the bin. The appalling
amounts wasted in restaurants and fast food eateries is another story.
Tristram Stuart’s Waste: Uncovering the Global Food Scandal lays bare
our wasteful habits, from the farm to shrinkwrapped supermarket
packaging and beyond. Stuart, a freegan and environmental campaigner,
has based his book on painstaking research carried out over several
years of first-hand experience of foraging in supermarket bins, as
well as interviews with company executives and trawls through the
meagre data provided by governments and businesses.
The book, with 68 pages of detailed notes and 69 pages of
bibliography, bristles with facts but points also to the huge gaps in
our knowledge of waste. Most retailers, for instance, prefer not to
say how much food they waste, regarding it as a trade secret. Giving
it away would put them at a competitive disadvantage, they tell Stuart.
Waste is certainly one of the most important environmental books to
come out in years. But it is more than that. It is an indictment of
our consumer culture that should make us all feel deeply ashamed. The
scale of our food waste problem – and its effect on the developing
world – revealed in this book will leave you shocked. And, the author
hopes, demanding change.
Avoiding the unnecessary wasting of food is deeply ingrained in most
cultures. “Your eyes are bigger than your belly” was how children who
helped themselves to more than they could eat were scolded in the
Belfast of my childhood. Those who failed to finish, or gorged
themselves on too much, would be reminded first of the starving
children in Africa then, for good measure, of the Irish famine of the
1840s.
. . .
We need not go back so far to discover raw memories of food shortages.
Rationing during the second world war and early 1950s left its mark on
British life for decades, and famines during and following the war
scarred Europe and parts of Asia. In the past two decades, we have
seen famines in Africa roll horrifically across our television screens.
Human societies have found ingenious ways to eke out our valuable food
resources: to store, pickle and preserve; to find uses for byproducts;
to fatten animals on scraps; and even to burn or distil the last
residues. Much of our cultural heritage is defined by what we eat. As
Stuart reminds us in his chapter-heading – quotations from the Bible,
Koran and folk sayings – we have evolved elaborate rules and customs
that embody the imperative to use food efficiently.
Yet our culture of thrift, built up over millennia, seems to have
broken down within a few decades into a culture of carelessness. The
food wasted each day in the UK and the US alone would be enough to
alleviate the hunger of 1.5bn people – more than the global number of
malnourished. How did this happen?
Retailers must shoulder a large part of the blame. The illusion of
plenty they like to foster, by constantly refilling shelves and
ensuring there is always more food than can be bought in a day, comes
in for an excoriating attack. These practices, in turn, force
suppliers to overproduce for fear that if the retailer runs out of a
product, they will be held to blame.
If this sounds like poor economics, it isn’t. Food has become so cheap
in most developed countries that retailers make more profit from
selling one more sandwich than they lose from throwing it in the bin
if it remains unsold. So overstacking the shelves is a no-brainer.
Food producers play along because they need to keep their contracts
with retailers, and they incorporate the cost of waste into their
products.
Stuart records seeing stacks of ready-meals, metres high, being
crushed at a food producer’s plant instead of being sold. They had not
even passed their sell-by date – it was just that the retailer decided
it did not need so many. They were retailer branded, so could not be
sold elsewhere. The edible food had to be landfilled.
Red tape does not help. Confusion over best-before, sell-by and
display-by dates causes massive waste of edible food. So did the over-
regulation, until recently, of food sizes and shapes by the European
Union. As a result of a knee-jerk reaction by the UK government after
the foot-and-mouth disease outbreak in 2001, food scraps from school
kitchens and the like cannot even be given to pigs as swill.
Stuart catalogues appalling waste all through the food supply chain:
the farmer whose tasty, blemish-free carrots are only deemed fit to
feed animals because they are a mite too bendy to be sold in
supermarkets, which assume buyers can only cope with straight veg;
retail chains that padlock their bins or deliberately spoil the edible
contents, for fear their customers will forage in them; consumers who
fall for buy-one-get-one-free offers to buy food they will not eat.
Wasting food in rich countries cannot be seen in a vacuum. It has a
disastrous effect on the poor. Cheap food is an illusion – the
pressure on agricultural land for people to feed themselves and
produce for export markets is causing widespread deforestation in the
Amazon, south-east Asia and Africa, and soil degradation across the
world. Our careless waste pushes up prices for globalised commodities
such as grain and rice, forcing poor people to go hungry or beggar
themselves.
This book exposes all of these effects clearly, logically and
readably. It made me more angry than any book I have read for a long
time.
Fiona Harvey is the FT’s environment corresponden
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