[Reader-list] A Visit to the Joydev Mela - posting by Averee Chaurey

[Vivek Narayanan]

THIRD POSTING



My next visit was to the Joydev Mela , at Kenduli in Birbhum ,where the 
largest number of Bauls congregate.

This was my first visit to Kenduli , a place close to the hearts of all 
Bauls . From Kolkata I take the train to Shantiniketan and onwards by 
taxi to Kenduli which takes about 2 hours .Kenduli is a small village , 
on the banks of the river Ajay . This is the mecca for the Bauls 
.Kenduli is home to a shrine of Joydev and Padmabati , whose love story 
has been sung for many years . Joydev is the famous poet who wrote `Geet 
Gobind’. The annual mela is held here in his honour .

Thousands of people have gathered here for the festival ; as far as the 
gaze goes all you can see is countless heads of people .Small tents , 
about 50 in number , have mushroomed all over ; all of them housing 
Bauls .These tents are known as ` akhras ‘. A huge open stage or Mukta 
Mancha stands in the centre .It is from here that I hear beautiful music 
and get to speak to some Bauls and Baulinis .Interestingly , I get to 
meet Purna Das Baul ,who has been responsible for popularising Baul 
music all over the world .In spite of his busy schedule I did get to 
have a chat with him .He is probably one of the most famous Bauls around 
having even found a place on the cover of Bob Dylan’s 1968 album .I 
asked him to comment on the current trends of Baul music ,the publicity 
it is getting and on Baul fusion .`Most Bauls do not stick to authentic 
tunes,’he says,`though the popularity of the music has brought in a 
welcome change.’Purna Das thinks the older generation shies away from 
the publicity blitz .He is not averse to the idea of Baul fusion because 
as long as he chants the name of Krishna ,he thinks it does not mean 
drifting away .

As dusk sets in , the crowd has now swollen to scary proportions . I 
meet a Baulini who lets me into her small hut .She looks after her Baul 
sangi (partner) and rears children .Still she finds time to sing and has 
inducted her child into the tradition . I hear the little Chatu Das 
regale the audience .He is just 10 years old .

I noticed that the music too has changed . Instruments like harmonium 
and tabla which traditionally are not played with Baul songs , now form 
a part of their renditions .Group shows with musicians accompanying 
Bauls seemed to be an emerging trend .

Yet, the philosophy remains the same :

Dwija Sudra itar bhadra , nai re bhedabhed bichar .
Brahmon ,Kshatriya ,Sudra mile mishe ekakar – Krishna Dasi
(Brahmin Sudra, the high and the low , there is no difference ; all are 
mingled together )





The next part of my work will focus more on women Bauls . The gender 
bias notwithstanding ,I intend to culminate my work in a play which will 
highlight the lives of these Baul women .